There are more than 430 statues of Ebisu, one of the Shichifukujin, or the Seven Lucky Gods, in my home city of Saga in the northern part of Kyushu Island. The figures lining the streets are worshipped as a travelers' guardian. Their number is the largest in Japan.
Gods that bring good fortune usually gain popularity when the economy is down and business is slow, but the Seven Lucky Gods have always been well-liked by the common people. The auspicious group is represented by many shrines and temples throughout Japan. Routes to visit these sanctuaries have existed since around the Edo period, and now many guidebooks are available that cover the more than a hundred such routes nationwide. Since good fortune is considered to come from beyond the seas, hanging scrolls and drawings that depict the seven gods on a "treasure ship" are also popular.
Who are the Seven Lucky Gods?

From left to right in the photograph above, they are: Jurojin (god of longevity), Daikokuten (god of rice production), Fukurokuju (god of longevity and happiness), Benzaiten (goddess of music and knowledge), Bishamonten (god of war), Hotei (god of wealth), and Ebisu (god of commerce). Since many of the gods have been transmitted from India or China, they are quite an international group. Only one is original to Japan: Ebisu.
Several theories surround Ebisu’s background, but the most common is that he was the first child of Shinto deities Izanagi and Izanami, who appear in the oldest books in Japan, Kojiki and Nihonshoki. He was originally named Hiruko, which means "leech child," and he could not walk even after three years of birth, so he was cast out to sea on a boat of reeds. The boat arrived at a port at Nishinomiya in Hyogo, and the child grew up to be Ebisu. Even today, the kanji for Hiruko is pronounced "Ebisu" in the region, and the Nishinomiya Shrine has become the head shrine of Ebisu worship.
People have commonly called this deity "Ebisu-san" or "Ebes-san," adding the friendly honorific title. He is said to be the god of fishery owing to the bream he carries under his left arm. The rod, which he holds in his right hand, means he hooks fish one at a time without using a net, that is, he is not greedy for profit. This has made him popular as the god of commerce and thriving business. Many place names, shrines, products, and souvenirs are named after Ebisu-san, and he is a familiar figure in the lives of the Japanese people.
It is unclear why Saga has the most Ebisu-san statues in Japan, but the city was built around a castle in the Edo period and was located halfway between Nagasaki and Kokura on the Nagasaki Kaido, the main route in Kyushu at the time. The statues of Ebisu-san were known to guard the travelers who used the busy route to transport large amounts of goods and information.
Today Saga is looking to Ebisu-san for help in breathing new life into the city. With more people using cars for transportation, residential areas are being developed in the suburbs. City-center industrialization has been withering, and a growing number of old shopping arcades are being closed down (they are called "shutter streets" since the stores' shutters are pulled down). A group of concerned people thought of seeking help from Ebisu-san for revitalization, since such a wide variety of the deity's statues can be enjoyed if one took the time to slowly walk through the city.

When looked at carefully, each Ebisu-san is indeed different in size, shape, and age. We have an Ebisu tour, where volunteer guides explain the origin of each statue to tourists from within and outside the prefecture. A Saga Ebisu Tour Scroll and a Sagan-machi (dialect for "town of Saga") Ebisu Guidebook are also available to help tourists gain a deeper understanding of the statues.
Let me introduce a few Ebisu-san in Saga.
Tonsan Ebisu
This huge 2.5-meter high statue is located in the Matsubara Shrine, which is dedicated to the Nabeshima founder.
Tonsan is Saga's dialect for "tonosama," or feudal lord.
A restaurant along the path to the shrine serves “Ebisu gozen”, a lunch menu that comes with raw bream (for only 1,000 yen!).

Michi-shirube Ebisu
This Ebisu-san is enshrined next to a Nagasaki Kaido signpost, or "michi-shirube," and has kept watch over the safety of travelers for many years.
His head was injured, but fortunately someone has given him a hat for protection.

Hoto Ebisu
Since the kanji for hoto is "win treasures," many people come to this Ebisu-san and pray they win the lottery. In fact, national lottery tickets bought in Saga have a good chance of winning.
One year, the amount of the prizes exceeded the amount of the tickets' revenue. Maybe this Ebisu-san really is lucky.
Ekubo Ebisu
This Ebisu-san sits modestly along the path to the Matsubara Shrine.
He is smiling and has dimples ("ekubo") in his cheeks.
Passersby cannot help but smile back.
He does not have an official name as he is not well-known, but we call him Ekubo Ebisu.
Saga has many other unique statues, like the Soroban Ebisu (holding an abacus), the Zabuton Ebisu (sitting on a zabuton cushion), and the Kosodate Ebisu (carrying a child instead of a bream).

Lastly, there is even an Ebisu-san on a shutter.
Taking a Seven Lucky Gods tour or a long walk to see the statues of Ebisu-san provides a good opportunity to take in the details of a city that you would otherwise overlook. And if it brings good fortune, what more is there to ask for? A tour guided by a lucky god might be the key to surviving the current once-in-a-century economic crisis. You're welcome to give it a try.
Reference: Shichifukujin shinko jiten (Ebisukosyo Publication Co., Ltd.), Shichifukujin monogatari (Suzuki Shuppan), Sagan-machi Ebisu Guidebook (Ebisu de machizukuri network)
Images: Ryouan Kawamatsu, Shinkoga
Text: Yuko Kawamatsu
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